26.1.10 | By: Deb

ELEPHANT RESCUE SANCTUARY

Tuesday, January 26,2010


Me and 6 month old baby Chang Yim



Today I spent an amazing day at the Elephant Nature Park. It's a 2000acre healing, rehabilitation and rescue sanctuary for Asian Elephants rescued from years of abuse in the streets begging, logging or tourist trekking to live out their days in freedom. It is about 60km north of Chiang Mai. I had such a fun day and it was so incredible to feed and bathe in the river with them and interact with the cute, playful 6 month old babies.


Me and Mae Perm She is over 80!

F
Feeding Lilly, an e-logging elephant. Drugged with amphetamines to the verge of death so she could work around the clock... she came to the park drug addicted.


Giving Jokia a bath! Jokia was a logging elephant. Forced to work up to the minute she gave birth she delivered her calf on the top of a hill. It rolled down and she was not allowed to go find it. It died and she refused to work after that. They stabbed her eyes out with slingshots and arrows to force her to work. She is completely blind. Mae Bern immediately adopted her when she arrived and stays by her side at all time to help her get around.

The Sanctuary's founder, Lek Chailert, is a truly inspirational woman. She has dedicated her life to saving Asian elephants and along with a staff of veterinarians and volunteers they treat the emotional and physical scars left on these poor abused animals. Her efforts have been recognised world wide and she is the recipient of many awards. She also runs a medical clinic that travels to remote villages and treats the working elephants and vaccinates the dogs for rabies in her project Jumbo Express. If that's not enough, she fiercely defends the rain forests that are quickly being destroyed by deforestation. Along with nearby monks they disperse into the forests and tie monk blessed cloth around the trees that prevent the villagers from cutting them down...lest they have a life of bad luck. You can see the orange cloth wrapped trees lining the roads out of the park. She is something of a celebrity in these parts but has also received many death threats and once had one of the baby elephants poisoned.
Take a few minute to go to the parks website and read some of the stories about the harsh lives of some of the park's rescued elephants. They are heart breaking.

In Thailand, it is estimated that 3800 of it's 5000 endangered Asian elephants are in private hands...mostly used in tourist camps forced to give trekking rides to tourists and forced to beg on the streets of the big cities where tourists pay to feed them and take a photo. They are considered livestock and have no rights. The penalty for mistreatment is pennies and not enforced. For a culture that reveres the elephant, worships it and considers it the national animal they do not treat them very well and the numbers are rapidly decreasing. At the beginning of the 20th century there were 100 000 elephants, 10 years ago there were 25000 and now less than 5000....
They are "trained" through torture and extreme abuse. Baby elephants are traumatically torn from their mother's as young as 4 and tortured mercilessly into submission. They are forced into a cage just big enough to hold them and bound by their feet as they scream. Then they are deprived of food, water, sleep and tortured by merciless beatings, being poked repeatedly with sharp metal hooks and shocked with electricity. This lasts for as much as 7 days until they feel it's spirit is broken. Elephants "off duty" are often chained up on short leashes, often in the hot sun, and forced to breed only to have their baby ripped from them to undergo the same torture. Every captive elephant in Asia endures this sadistic ritual and tourists don't realize that the spectacles they're participating is the product of severe animal abuse. The heavy wooded seats you see on their back for tourists to sit on are sitting on the weakest part of the elephants back, this causes pain and eventually debilitating back injuries.
Simply google "phajaan" to read the gory details. Search it on You Tube...if you dare. We watched a documentary at the sanctuary and the last 10 minutes show a young baby elephant going through this, it was extraordinarily disturbing.

NEVER PARTICIPATE IN ELEPHANT TREKKING OR RIDING, ELEPHANT TOURIST SHOWS THAT MAKE THEM PREFORM TRICKS OR GIVE MONEY TO THE MEN USING THEM AS BEGGARS ON THE CITY STREETS.

My day at the elephant nature park involved volunteering with the feeding, learning about the elephants/ hearing their stories and walking along with the elephants to the river to bathe with them...No riding, No tricks. The tourism dollar that comes to the park pays for food, medical care, and goes toward buying abused distressed elephants from their "owners" to live in the park... The sanctuary costs Lek over $250 000 a year to run and is run entirely on donations.

ELEPHANT TRIVIA

Elephants are known to be intelligent, emotional animals that have extremely strong social bonds between mother's and offspring and complex social bond with each other.

They are a lot like humans in that they live 70 years or more, reach puberty at 13 or 14, can have babies until age 50, have single calf's.

Elephant cry when they are sad...and can laugh and smile.


Elephants are extremely smart, putting them on par with other sophisticated animals like dolphins. Like primates, they play with objects found in their environment, use sticks to scratch themselves or shoo away flies and elephants have used large rocks to short circuit electrical fences.

When a member of the herd dies, the other elephants will gather around and touch the body with their trunks, they will watch over the body for days making mournful sounds with their trunks and only leave for food...they will show the same act of mourning for humans too. You've heard the line "elephants never forget"... it's true, elephants have an extraordinary memory. When migrating over hundreds of miles of grassland they will collectively pause over the spot where a family member died and even visit the graves regularly and make sounds of mourning. If there are bones they will all touch skull bone with their trunks. Most animals only show a passing interest in dead remains of their own species. Read this story about a death at the sanctuary.
They communicate both verbally and with body language, they can hear lower frequencies than humans and sense vibrations from miles away with their hypersensitive feet that they can send and receive messages with.

The strongest case for elephant intelligence is that they recognise themselves in the mirror indicating that they have a high sense of self awareness, an elephant with a smudge on it's face will try to wipe it off. Like humans, elephant brains are born at 35% of their adult weight and grow over 10 years giving them lots of time to acquire knowledge, they depend more on learned behaviour than instinctual behaviour for survival...making elephants and humans unique in the animal kingdom.
They live in tight family units run by an older female. The men leave the herd at age 14 or 15.

The 33 elephant herd at the sanctuary has split off into 5 different family groups. There are elephants that are best friends and spend all their time together, and adoptive mothers and aunties for the orphaned calf's.

Feeling charitable? Click HERE to donate to Lek's amazing rescue sanctuary. $10.00 buys food for one elephant for 1/2 a day, and $25.00 buys enough medicine to treat an abused or sick elephant for 2 visits.


THE END...ha ha
25.1.10 | By: Deb

CHIANG MAI

Monday, January 25,2010




I'm having a lovely time in Chiang Mai. It's a great city! I'm staying in the old town which is in the center of the city surrounded by a wall and a really pretty moat! It's easily walkable with lots of Temples poking out above the houses, yummy food and some pretty good shopping.





BEAUTIFUL TEMPLES

Every Sunday from 4-midnight several streets are shut down in the old city to make way for hundreds of stalls selling their local and handmade wares, parking lots set up as massive makeshift food fairs, streets are lined with rows of chairs for massages and there is every different type of street performers as far as the eye can see. The energy is palpable. It's like every member of the city is here to mingle and shop and eat! You can buy everything from cotton candy to fried crickets, outfits for your dog to a self portrait by a resident artist...and at super cheap prices. It was amazing! Luckily my hotel is right on one of the main streets it runs on. Since I had arrived in town before any set up had occurred I go to sit in the outdoor restaurant and watch the traffic suddenly stop and hundreds of vendors filter in to set up shop, complete with sparkly lights to light their store in the night....it was site to behold. The next morning there was no sign of it though...it was hard to believe it was the same street!!
SUNDAY MARKET SETUP AND IN FULL SWING

Today I had another lazy day. I wondered around town and did a little shopping....I had to buy new shorts. I've somehow managed to lose so much weight since I left Calgary that none of my pants fit...they are practically falling off my hips. So, I am now on a bulking up weight gain regime and trying to eat more and calorie it up....hope I can get back into them soon. My new favourite late night snack is mango with coconut sweetened sticky rice...SO good.

Today I have a full day. I am spending the day volunteering at an elephant sanctuary about 1.5hours northwest of Chiang Mai on 2000 acres of land that rescues and treats the mental and physical wounds left on the endangered Asian elephants forced to work for illegal logging and in treks and shows for tourists. I'm really excited to get to see the elephants up close.


THE BEAUTIFUL LOBBY OF MY HOTEL

23.1.10 | By: Deb

AYUTTHAYA

Sunday, January 24,2010






Yesterday I went on a day trip from Bangkok to Ayutthaya. It is an ancient city on an island where 3 rivers meet, the Chao Phraya, Loburi and Passak. It's located 88Km north of Bangkok and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Ancient ruins and a handful of majestic temples are all that is left but it's a time capsule back into ancient Siam. It was one of the most powerful kingdoms the world has ever seen...it's territory was huge including a huge part of Burma, China, south Vietnam, and the whole of Laos, Cambodia and Malaya. Ayutthaya was the Capital city of this kingdom and existed from 1350 to 1767AD when it was destroyed by the invading Burmese after a long war. The invaders removed the gold that covered most of the Buddha images as well as from decorations in the temples. They burned the temples and decapitated most of the Buddha's to take their heads back to Burma as war trophy's. Ironically enough, Ayutthaya means "cannot be conquered". In the mid 17th century the city's population was over a million people.






I took a train there and back from Bangkok and hired a tuk tuk for the day to take me on whirlwind tour of the best temples. This is a MUST SEE for anyone travelling to Thailand. I adored this city. It reminded me of Rome...brand new modern buildings with ancient ruins poking their heads up from behind. The city was really calm and peaceful. The temples and ruins are set amid babbling brooks, well maintained parks and all under a canopy of ancient trees, their roots grabbing onto everything in their path.



My favourite temple of the day was Wat Mahathat. It was the most striking of the temples. It was build in the 1300's and in 1956 a secret chamber was found and inside was gold jewelry, a gold casket containing the relic of Buddha and fine tableware. There was something about this temple, and I couldn't quite put my finger on it..but it had such a calming ethereal quality...maybe it was the time of day, the angle of the sun, the lack of tourists or the dotting of monks in the distance in their bright orange clothes...but I could barely tear myself away. The huge, crumbling stupas, some of them leaning so far to the side that one day soon they too will be reduced to rubble, must of been so spectacular in their youth. I imagine the people who lived at that time and built these temples never imagined them one day being a ruin and turning back into the dust they were created from...and still there are rows of broken decapitated Buddha's watching over their destroyed kingdom. There was a real beauty in the way their broken bodies are lovingly stacked on top of their still crossed stone legs. One really cool spot in this temple is where the roots of an old tree have slowly grown around a Buddha, swallowing his body whole and now all that remains is a stone head poking out amongst the tendrils that will one day cover it entirely. I wonder who planted that tree?
The fates were smiling on me that day....after leaving the last temple, with the sun shining on me, the clouds opened up and began a torrential downpour as I was being driven back to the train station.
When I arrived back in Bangkok, I had the tuk tuk driver take me directly to a massage place where I treated myself to an hour foot massage and an hour Thai full body massage( thankfully it was not the traumatizing molestation I encountered during my massage in India http://debindia.blogspot.com/2008/11/i-just-went-to-second-base-with-indian.html ) and I slept like a baby!
This morning I flew to Chiang Mai and am spending a relaxing afternoon at my REALLY beautiful and peaceful hotel. Just had a watermelon smoothie and fruit salad and will meander out to do some exploring in an a hour or so. There's a huge Sunday market here tonight so I plan on hanging out there and taking it all in....maybe there will be some massaging...probably.
22.1.10 | By: Deb

BANGKOK

Saturday, January 23,2010



I had a really great first day in Bangkok. I'm really loving Thailand. I was expecting it to be a big, chaotic, overwhelming city like Delhi or Cairo but was surprised to find it nothing like that and actually quite pleasant. Thai people are so incredibly friendly and helpful. Cars generally obey traffic signals and stay in their lanes...I could cross the street without risking death or dismemberment. Not once was I harassed...I could browse any of the shops/stalls without the owners stalking me and pressuring me to buy something, even the tuk tuk's and taxi's are unobtrusive. It was pretty easy to get around by water taxi and walking. The one time I got mildly lost...well, I knew where I was but not what direction I was going, this nice Thai man got up from were he was eating dinner and helped me get in the right direction...no ulterior motive.
I started my day by jumping on a water taxi to head down to see the Grand Palace, Wat pho, Wat Arun and the Emerald Buddha. At the pier there are these huge fish in the water that you can buy bags of bread for and feed....the feeding frenzy that happens is hilarious! These two monks were feeding the fish while I waited for my boat to my great amusement. On the ride down the river I met Aaron, who's traveling from London, when he asked to see my map and we decided to travel together to Wat Pho since we were both heading in the same direction.
MONKS FEEDING BREAD TO THE RIVER FISH AND SUBSEQUENT FEEDING FRENZY.
The temples,or wats, are not just tourist attractions but also play an important part in Buddhist traditions. Monks live in the temple complexes, wake up around 04:00, attend to prayers and duties and then collect food and necessities from ordinary people on the streets. This daily alms ritual (called 'tam boon') takes place all over Thailand and is part of the Buddhist philosophy of giving and making merit to attain a better life beyond this one. Perhaps one day I will try to wake up that early and catch a glimpse of this....maybe.

WAT PHO: THE RECLINING BUDDHA
ME AND AARON

Wat Pho is the Temple of the Reclining Buddha from16th century temple. It's the oldest, largest and has the most pagodas of any monastery in the city. Wat Pho is known for its giant reclining Buddha which is HUGE...it is 46 meters long and 15 meters high. Very difficult to photograph it all! He's completely plated in gold and has mother of pearl inlay in his eyes and humongous feet.

After Wat Pho, when me and Aaron were trying to find the entrance for the Grand Palace, we met two girls from Calgary, ironically enough, and travelled onward together with them. When faced with a 300baht entrance fee Aaron parted ways with us and me and Kiera, after her friend went to see a nearby museum, went to the Grand Palace together and had a fantastic time taking all sorts of dorky photos of each other. The highlight was having to time a shot of each of us grabbing a topiary phallus when the guards weren't watching(as to avoid being physically removed from the Grand Palace for corrupting an innocent topiary).

ME AND KIERA POST TOPIARY ASSAULT

I went off on my own after that and made my way across the river to see Wat Arun: The Temple of the dawn. Wat Arun is one of Bangkok's best know landmarks. It stands on the west bank of the Chao Phraya river in Thonburi. There is a beautiful monastery complex surrounding the temple. The wat is climbable...via extremely steep tall steps. It was actually quite frightening but very high up giving me an excellent view over Bangkok...but it took a little nerve to climb back down again...it was kind of like stepping off a cliff.

VIEW FROM THE TOP OF WAT ARUN

When I finished there I headed down to Khao San road to check it out..that's the backpacker mecca in Bangkok. It took all my will power not to shop!!!

I did, however, have a 1/2 foot massage for about 3 dollars and it was literally the best massage of my life...this man had magic fingers. Next time I'm doing an hour...it was amazing and will now be part of my daily itinerary. I did so much walking my poor feet were so happy after that! I followed that up with dinner, that cost about 80cents, and walked back to my hotel for a much needed shower. It's very hot and humid here, I LOVE it!

21.1.10 | By: Deb

I'M HERE!

Friday, January 22,2010

I arrived safe and sound in Bangkok. It's warm and humid and best of all NO snow! Luckily all my planes were on time and my luggage made it with me. I had a really tight connection in Tokyo and literally sprinted through the airport to make it mid-boarding. The Air Canada flight from Vancouver to Tokyo was 10.5 hours and great with roomy economy seats, TV's in the chair back and no one was seated beside me so I had 2 seats to spread out in(and did I ever spread out!) but the United flight from Tokyo to Bangkok was like being stuffed into a coffin. I swear this plane was circa 1970...how I didn't develop a DVT I 'll never know! I arrived at the hotel around 1am Thailand time and I managed to get a good nights sleep with a little imovane intervention,which my mother can attest to as I was trying to type back and forth to her on AOL and could no longer spell or form sentences coherently...I was laughing hysterically in my room and am sure the neighbours thought a crazy person moved in next door. Now I feel rested and ready to take on the day. I'll add a blog entry and photo's tonight of my day's adventures tonight.

Interesting/funny observations of yesterday:
-I watched a Japanese boy on the plane artfully apply butter to his roll with chopsticks. Very Impressive.
-My driver from the airport's cell phone ring tone was the backstreet boys...Very cute.
-LOTS of people wearing face masks in the airport and throughout our entire 10 hour flight, I can't imagine how hot and stuffy that would be. Very paranoid!
-There's a yellow parrot on the table next to me dancing. Yes, dancing.

I'm caffeinated and fed and going out to explore!!!
18.1.10 | By: Deb

SOUTHEAST ASIA ITINERARY


Southeast Asia Itinerary January 20, 2010 to March 12, 2010

January 20
Air Canada Flight AC 1147
 Depart Calgary YYC 10:15
Arrive Vancouver YVR 10:42

Air Canada Flight AC 0003
 Depart Vancouver YVR 13:55

January 21
Air Canada Flight AC 0003
Arrive Tokyo NRT 17:30

Air Canada Flight 5853
Depart Tokyo NRT 18:35
Arrive Bangkok BKK 23:45

Bangkok

Hotel:
Phranakorn Nornlen
46 Thewet soi 1, Phranakorn, Bangkhunprom, Krungkaseam, Bangkok, Thailand
Tel: 0 26288188-90

January 22
Bangkok

January 23
Bangkok
  
 January 24
Air Asia Flight FD 3232
Depart Bangkok BKK at 10:55
Arrive Chiang Mai CNX at 12:00

Chiang Mai

Hotel:
3 Sis Bead and Breakfast
1 soi 8 Phrapokklao Rd. T Phasing
A. Maung Chaing Mai 50200
Tel: 66-53-273243

January 25
Chiang Mai

January 26
Chiang Mai

January 27
Chiang Mai

Thailand Rail Night Train #2
Depart Chiang Mai at 17:55

January 28
Thailand Rail Night Train #2
Arrive Bangkok at 07:00

Bangkok Airlines Flight PG 905
 Depart Bangkok BKK at 11:35
Arrive Siem Reap REP at 12:35

Siem Reap

Hotel:
Golden Banana Boutique Resort
Phum Wat Damnak, Kum Sala Komreuk,
Krom 10, Siem Reap, Cambodia
Tel: +855 (0)12654638

January 29
Siem Reap

January 30
Siem Reap

January 31
Siem Reap

February 1
Vietnam Airlines VN9852
Depart Siem Reap REP at 14:10
Arrive Phnom Penh PNE at 15:00

Phnom Pehn

Hotel:
The Manor House
21, St.262, Daun Penh, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Tel: +855 (0)23 992566

February 2
Phnom Penh

February 3
Vietnam Airlines VN0841
Depart Phnom Penh PNE at 12:40
Arrive HCMC SGN at 13:25

HCMC

Hotel:
Beautiful Saigon Hotel
62 Biu Vien Street, District 1, HCMC, Vietnam
Tel: +84838364852

February 4
HCMC

February 5
HCMC- Mekong Delta Tour

February 6
HCMC- Mekong Delta Tour

February 7
HCMC

February 8
Vietnam Airlines VN0240
Depart HCMC SGN at 9:45
Arrive Dan Nang DAD at 10:55

Hoi An

Hotel:
Cua Dai Hotel
544 Cua Dai Road
Hoi An, Quang Nam, Vietnam
Tel No: +84 51 0386 2231

February 9
Hoi An

February 10
Hoi An

February 11
Sinh Cafe Bus
Depart Hoi An at 8:00
Arrive Hue at 12:00

Hue

Hotel:
Orchid Hotel
30A Chu Van An Street, Hue City, Vietnam
Tel: (84-54) 383 1177
  
February 12
Hue
  
February 13
Hue

February 14
Vietnam Airlines VN0240
Depart Hue HUI at 8:00
Arrive Hanoi HAN at 9:10

Hanoi

Hotel:
The Jasmine Hotel
57 Lo Su, Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi, Vietnam.
Tel No: +844 3926 4420

February 15
Hanoi

February 16
Halong Bay Cruise

February 17
Halong Bay Cruise

February 18
Halong Bay Cruise

Vietnam Rail Night Train
Depart Hanoi at 21:15
Arrive Sapa at 05:30

February 19
Sapa

February 20
Sapa

February 21
Sapa

Vietnam Rail Night Train
Depart  Sapa at 20:15
Arrive Hanoi at 04:30

Hanoi

Hotel:
The Jasmine Hotel
57 Lo Su, Hanoi Old Quarter
Hanoi, Vietnam.
Tel No: +844 3926 4420

February 22
Air Asia FD3710
Depart Hanoi HAN at 09:10
Arrive Bangkok BKK at 11:10

Air Asia Flight FD3165
Depart Bangkok BKK at 13:50
Arrive Krabi KBV at 15:10

Krabi

Hotel:
Krabi River Hotel
73/1 Kongkha Rd. Muang Krabi 81000, Thailand
Tel No: +66 0 75 612321

February 23
Ferry:
Krabi town to Ko Lanta Saladan Pier

Ko Lanta

Hotel:
La Laanta Resort
188 M5, Bamboo Beach, Koh Lanta, Krabi, Thailand 81150 Tel: (66) (0) 75 665 066

February 24
Ko Lanta

February 25
Ko Lanta

February 26
Ko Lanta

February 27
Ko Lanta

February 28
Ferry:
Ko Lanta Saladan Pier to Phuket

Phuket

Hotel:Casa Brazil Homestay
9 Luangphochuan Soi1, Karon Beach
Phuket 83100 . 
Tel: 66 (0) 76-396317
 March 1
 Phuket

March 2
  Phuket

March 3

Krabi Railay Beach

Hotel:
Railay Bay Resort and Spa
145 Moo 2 Aonang Amphur Muang,
Krabi 81000, Thailand
Tel : 66-75622-998,6675-622-999

March 4
Krabi Railay Beach

March 5
Krabi Railay Beach

March 6
Air Asia Flight FD3164
Depart Krabi KBVat 12:25
Arrive Bangkok BKK at 13:45

Bangkok

Hotel:
Phranakorn Nornlen
46 Thewet soi 1, Phranakorn, Bangkhunprom, Krungkaseam, Bangkok, Thailand
Tel: 0 26288188-90 Fax: 0 26288600

March 7
Thai Airways INTL Flight TG 0676
Depart Bangkok BKK at 8:20
Arrive Tokyo NRT at 16:00

Tokyo

Hotel:
Annex Katsutaro Ryokan
3-8-4Yanaka, Taito-ku
Tokyo Japan #110-0001
Tel+81-3-3828-2500

March 8
Tokyo

March 9
Bullet Train to Kyoto

Kyoto

Hotel:
Matsubaya Inn
Nishi-uru, Higashinotouin, Kamijuzuamachi-dori, Shimogyo-Ku, Kyoto City, Japan
Tel:  075-351-3727


March 10
Kyoto

March 11
Kyoto
Bullet Train to Tokyo

Tokyo

Hotel:
Annex Katsutaro Ryokan
3-8-4Yanaka, Taito-ku
Tokyo Japan #110-0001
Tel+81-3-3828-2500
http://www.katsutaro.com/annex_index.html

 March 12
Air Canada Flight AC 0004
Depart Tokyo NRT at 19:00
Arrive Vancouver YVR at 10:50

Air Canada Flight AC 0214
Depart Vancouver YVR at 13:00
Arrive Calgary YYC at 15:19